Kerri L Watt: That is fascinating. And this new found love after becoming a parent has now led to a book, hasn’t it- Wild Honey and Rye?
Ren Behan: Yes, and it’s an opportunity I’m so grateful for. There were plenty of avenues I could have explored for the theme, but it felt right to hone in on the Polish cook inside me. That’s my origin, after all. It was somewhat difficult to convince people that Polish food would be a marketable angle for my book, but I knew in my heart it was the right thing to do. Looking back, we’re all glad I trusted my gut instinct!
I took several trips to Poland to research how the culinary scene was evolving, and was startled to see how much it had changed since my childhood. A restaurant in Warsaw even got a Michelin Star (with a second restaurant gaining the same accolade now) which shows how seriously Polish society is addressing food now. My pursuit of a modern interpretation of my Polish roots felt so exhilarating.
My publishers agreed, as my book became less of a nostalgic collection of old traditional Polish dishes and more of a modern evolution of our relationship with food. I stayed true to the traditional elements of Polish food, honouring the heritage side, while balancing the new and innovative recipes. We worked with a remarkably talented Japanese photographer called Yuki Sugiura who understood why stylisation was imperative to a modern Polish angle. Yuki and the styling team added a unique visual asset to the book, merging tradition with a slightly modern angle. It’s not seen much with Polish recipes, so it offered a new gallery to the market.
Kerri L Watt: It does look fantastic. As an afternoon tea fanatic, there’s definitely some recipes I’m eager to introduce to my sweet tooth!
Ren Behan: The Poles do really enjoy a generous slice of cake and a cup of hot lemon tea. Maybe even a baked cheesecake if you’re treating yourself. There’s a wonderful cafe culture, especially in Warsaw and Krakow, where people go out specifically just for their afternoon tea and cake. That’s why that relevant chapter was so close to my heart- it’s not simply dessert, it’s a celebration of Polish culture and relationships.
There are tray-bakes full of blueberries, apple and plum cakes – with seasonality accentuating the freshness of Polish cooking. People don’t always expect that healthier, fresher side of Polish food.
Kerri L Watt: This is certainly making my stomach rumble a little! Would you credit any books, moments, films, people with inspiring you to get to where you are now?
Ren Behan: I remember watching Julie and Julia, which is the story of a food blogger who follows Julia Child’s recipes via her blog, and that resonated with me. The younger Julia has this moment where she realises her opinions and ideas could be shared and begins blogging, and it made me think of that moment in my own life when a friend suggested I harness my passion and energy into a food blog. A diploma in food journalism soon followed and here I am.
I didn’t really have a plan other than take a course online and research other food writers for inspiration. I’ve always loved the Middle Eastern style of cooking, so explored international recipes availability and found a stark lacking in the Polish market. I saw other single subject books on Eastern Europe beginning to act as a publicity platform for a whole country’s food scene, and I wanted to do that for Poland.
Recently a book called Salt and Time came out to promote the depth of modern Russian Siberian recipes, so it’s great to see a continuing interest in lesser-known. My shelves are over spilling with curious food culture education, there’s a definite thirst for it in the industry. There’s so much to explore still. There was demand for my book, and as a second generation Pole it felt like an opportunity to encourage others to reignite their culture identification. Helping others reconnect with their heritage has been my favourite element of this whole book release.
Kerri L Watt: What are the biggest myths about Polish food?
Ren Behan: People assume Eastern European food is stodgy and meat based, where there’s a lot of vegan and vegetarian restaurants in Poland and the country does take its health seriously. It’s not all about the meat and carbs! Sure, there’s some comfort food, but you see that everywhere in every culture’s cuisine.
There are a lot of recipes made with flour or potatoes, and a lot of roots such as beetroot, which we call ‘food from the land.’ But we really bring fresh food into our kitchens whenever we can. There’s an abundance of interesting flavours.
Kerri L Watt: Sounds delicious! Are there common fears with Polish food, certain apprehensions you may have seen others have?
Ren Behan: It comes down to a fear of the unknown- most people couldn’t even name a single Polish dish. They may question, what even is Polish food? They may associate it with stew and dumplings and being labour or time intensive.
Tackling that stigma was always my focus. One recipe which surprises people the most is my honey and rye loaf, it’s so easy and quick and people don’t expect it. It’s fun too- like flavouring your own vodkas. All abilities, all seasons, all the pleasure.
